A friend of mine referred to me recently as “epicurean.” I found it odd at first that he should reach this revelation while watching me enjoy a Tootsie Pop - as tasty as the chocolaty pops of happiness may be, they’re hardly comparable to a fine wine. After doing a bit of research on Epicureanism, however, I realized the philosophy of Epicurus and his school is about more than being a food-and-drink snob. It’s about enjoying life in general, even the more seemingly-trivial aspects - including friendship, romance, and, yes, food and drink. A sense of adventure about these small pleasures is key to the philosophy, so I suppose my snacking habits are indeed epicurean. After all, I derive a lot of pleasure from trying odd and unusually-flavored snacks.

The other day, it might have been the spirit of Epicurus who guided me straight through the chip-aisle of a nearby discount store. Under his ghostly influence, I reached for a bag of Cinnamon-flavored Sunchips, wheeled my cart toward the counter, and purchased the strangely-flavored chips. My possession ended halfway through the drive home (poor Epicurus was probably frightened; life in ancient Greece hadn’t prepared him for LA traffic!).

I was left with a swirl of mixed emotions about my purchase. Sure, Sunchips (in guises like Original and Harvest Cheddar) are among my favorite snacks, but would a flavor like Cinnamon be a good fit for their crispy whole-grain goodness? I somehow doubted it. After all, if they were as tasty as other Sunchip varieties, why would these chips be the only version for sale at the discount place?

I’m sad to report that my suspicions were justified. All the textural elements I’ve come to love in Sunchips are present, along with the native grainy and salty notes of their “Plain” version. In this incarnation, though, an overwhelming coat of cinnamon-sugar comes along for the ride. The end result is kind of like a bag of Taco Bell’s Cinnamon Twists - only pounded thin and left to cool and stagnate for a few days.

(My Mom about to eat a Cinnamon Sunchip - snacking is a family affair!)

I love the separate elements of this snack, and both, when noted individually, hold up well. The Sunchips are crispy and bear the brand’s familiar, addictive taste. The cinnamon-sugar, wonderfully spicy and probably sweet enough to induce diabetic shock, would make a fine addition to a warm churro or cinnamon roll. However, when taken together, the results are a bit confusing.

These chips are by no means the worst snack I’ve ever tasted (that honor probably goes to Whole Foods’ bakery monstrosities), but they’re nowhere near “good,” and probably near the entry point to the mid-range on my snacking scale. It’s a shame, because a lot of times I find edible enjoyment in unlikely places. Frequently, Epicurus is spot-on in his guidance. This time he and I disagreed, but you can’t really fault him. After all, tastes have changed since the Iron Age.

• Sunchips Website

Buy Cinnamon Sunchips Online:

• at Amazon.com